2011 ac/heat blender door noise - EquinoxForum.net: Chevy Equinox Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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2011 ac/heat blender door noise

Recently I have been hearing a noise from under the dash. It sounds like a "muted" click, 3 - 4 times when the car is started and ac is on. From what I have read, is is probably a blender door activator, which I believe there are 3 on the Terrain. (?)

The AC seems to be working although with the recent 90+ degree days, at times, it may be not cooling fully, hard to say. I haven't checked the air temps. The noise happens initially when the car is started, with ac on "auto". It will occasionally make the noise on it's own when driving. I can also make it happen consistently when I click the recirculate button on and then off. It will sometime make the noise when I change from auto, when I change the upper or lower vents with the arrow buttons.

I removed the glove box and looked at the activator located toward the bottom left side. I didn't feel any vibration when the noise happens from there. I also disconnected that activator and the noise would still happen.

Any thoughts about the other activators or other things to check? It difficult to tell exactly where the noise is coming from. I haven't seen a good description where the other activators are in a 2011 model. Are the 2010+ all the same?

I did locate some pictures (the two on the driver's side) on another post but confused which activator may be causing the issue. Assuming it is an activator.

Also when re-syncing the activators on the 2011 do you remove the HVAC fuse for 10 seconds and reinstall with key on/engine off? Also there are two. One says HVAC Batt and the other says HVAC IGN.

Thanks for any feedback.

TXCYCLE123

Last edited by txcycle123; 06-16-2017 at 02:51 PM. Reason: Pic on another post
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 02:52 PM
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read this.

HOW TO: Replace 2010+ Equinox/Terrain HVAC Mode door actuator

2013 Equinox&nbsp; LT1 3.6L V6 FWD -&nbsp; &nbsp;60,000<br />2010 Traverse LT1 3.6L V6 FWD -&nbsp;127,000 <br />2003 Trailblazer LS&nbsp; 4.2L I6 RWD- 180,000
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, rbarrios,

I did see that post but I wasn't sure that was my issue. In my case the heater and ac both seem to work, including the upper and lower vents for each. And the noise seem to be coming more from the right side of all that duct work. Do you know which activator operates the recirculate door? (I do have the auto climate control model)

TXCYCLE123
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by txcycle123 View Post
Thanks, rbarrios,

I did see that post but I wasn't sure that was my issue. In my case the heater and ac both seem to work, including the upper and lower vents for each. And the noise seem to be coming more from the right side of all that duct work. Do you know which activator operates the recirculate door? (I do have the auto climate control model)

TXCYCLE123

The Air Inlet Valve Actuator is not too bad to get to.
Take out the glove box first, and you will see the cabin air filter.
That actuator is above the cabin air filter by a few inches, and on the left side of it.


You will need to remove the windshield defroster duct first, and it's right there.
Three screws hold it in, heads on the left, pointed tips of the screw on the right.


And yes to your question, when replacing a HVAC actuator you will need to recalibrate the new one.
You can use the fuse method, so you will not need a scanner.

2014 Equinox LTZ FWD 3.6L. V-6 (LFX)
GM6T70 Transmission-Gen II(M7W)
Crystal Red Tintcoat-Brownstone Leather-(FE2) Suspension-18" Wheels
Build Date: Nov. 04, 2013-Delivery Date: Nov. 25, 2013

Last edited by rednox301; 06-17-2017 at 02:10 PM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Saga continues

Quote:
Originally Posted by rednox301 View Post
The Air Inlet Valve Actuator is not too bad to get to.
Take out the glove box first, and you will see the cabin air filter.
That actuator is above the cabin air filter by a few inches, and on the left side of it.


You will need to remove the windshield defroster duct first, and it's right there.
Three screws hold it in, heads on the left, pointed tips of the screw on the right.


And yes to your question, when replacing a HVAC actuator you will need to recalibrate the new one.
You can use the fuse method, so you will not need a scanner.
Thanks!
OK, now that I actually saw it in action, it appears to be opening and closing properly. The noise happens when the door moves down and stops. It makes the noise and you can see the door jump a little each click. ( 3 - 6 clicks)

I used this procedure to re-sync: "... remove BOTH fuses for HVAC (I think it was #12 and #21? [12 & 14 0n mine]). Insert ignition key and turn ignition on (don't start the car) and let it sit for 1 minute. Shut it off and replace the fuses."

After doing this, it still clicks upon closing. I wonder if there is a slight amount of wear in the gears but it is still functioning? Maybe I caught it before it has totally gone out? On the other hand, after re-syncing, shouldn't it stop in the correct position?

TXCYCLE123
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by txcycle123 View Post
Thanks!
OK, now that I actually saw it in action, it appears to be opening and closing properly. The noise happens when the door moves down and stops. It makes the noise and you can see the door jump a little each click. ( 3 - 6 clicks)

I used this procedure to re-sync: "... remove BOTH fuses for HVAC (I think it was #12 and #21? [12 & 14 0n mine]). Insert ignition key and turn ignition on (don't start the car) and let it sit for 1 minute. Shut it off and replace the fuses."

After doing this, it still clicks upon closing. I wonder if there is a slight amount of wear in the gears but it is still functioning? Maybe I caught it before it has totally gone out? On the other hand, after re-syncing, shouldn't it stop in the correct position?

TXCYCLE123
You are probably right that the gears are starting to wear.
To recalibrate the actuator you will have to remove the two fuses going to the HVAC Control Module.
On my 2014 it is Fuse #12 and #14 in the instrument panel fuse block.


Below is the recalibrate procedure (edited for length)
1. Clear all DTC's.
2. Ignition off
3. Install the HVAC actuator
4. Connect all previously disconnected components.
5. Remove HVAC Control Module fuses for a minimum of 10 seconds.
6. Reinstall fuses.
7. Start vehicle, A/C on.
8. Wait 1 minute for HVAC Control Module to self-calibrate.
9. DO NOT adjust any controls on the HVAC Control Module while recalibration is taking place

2014 Equinox LTZ FWD 3.6L. V-6 (LFX)
GM6T70 Transmission-Gen II(M7W)
Crystal Red Tintcoat-Brownstone Leather-(FE2) Suspension-18" Wheels
Build Date: Nov. 04, 2013-Delivery Date: Nov. 25, 2013

Last edited by rednox301; 06-18-2017 at 12:59 PM.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Question

rednox301

"The Air Inlet Valve Actuator is not too bad to get to... You will need to remove the windshield defroster duct first..."

OK, I'm probably not seeing the whole picture or your definition of "not to bad to get to" is different from mine.

I see the actuator on the left side of the box but I'm trying to figure how to remove the defroster duct you refer to. (Without removing the dash.) Are you referring to duct #1? Sorry if I'm being a bit obtuse. The welded dash brace seems to be in the way, can't see how I'm going to get my hand in there. Do the three larger bolts going through the brace and into the airbox need to be removed to move it?

Can you go through the steps? Thanks for your help.

cycle123
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 12:32 PM
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txcycle123

You might have to just get in there and do it the easiest way you can.
The GM manual just points you in the right direction, the pics do help.
1. Remove the instrument panel lower trim panel retainer.
2. Remove windshield defroster duct (#1 in your diagram).
3. Remove air inlet valve screws (Qty: 3).
4. Disconnect wiring connector at actuator.


It also tells you to remove the defroster duct to "gain easier access" so you may not need to as you already know where the actuator is.
As with all dash work, 1/4 inch extensions and swivels are your friends.
It looks like the 3 screws have hex heads, a definite plus.

2014 Equinox LTZ FWD 3.6L. V-6 (LFX)
GM6T70 Transmission-Gen II(M7W)
Crystal Red Tintcoat-Brownstone Leather-(FE2) Suspension-18" Wheels
Build Date: Nov. 04, 2013-Delivery Date: Nov. 25, 2013

Last edited by rednox301; 06-19-2017 at 12:38 PM.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rednox301 View Post
txcycle123

You might have to just get in there and do it the easiest way you can.
The GM manual just points you in the right direction, the pics do help.
1. Remove the instrument panel lower trim panel retainer.
2. Remove windshield defroster duct (#1 in your diagram).
3. Remove air inlet valve screws (Qty: 3).
4. Disconnect wiring connector at actuator.


It also tells you to remove the defroster duct to "gain easier access" so you may not need to as you already know where the actuator is.
As with all dash work, 1/4 inch extensions and swivels are your friends.
It looks like the 3 screws have hex heads, a definite plus.
Well, I guess I'll try to sync them one more time for grins, then I may dig around under the dash out of curiosity, since it's still working. When I check aftermarket or acdelco, I only see one number listed for actuator. Does that mean all three actuators are the same ? Pretty amazing if true.

Thanks again!

txcycle123
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 01:57 PM
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Ive had an actuator- where several gear teeth break.
It skips when it reaches these missing teeth
this is where the clicking came from on mine (impala).

2013 Equinox&nbsp; LT1 3.6L V6 FWD -&nbsp; &nbsp;60,000<br />2010 Traverse LT1 3.6L V6 FWD -&nbsp;127,000 <br />2003 Trailblazer LS&nbsp; 4.2L I6 RWD- 180,000
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