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2010 Equinox 4 cyl Throttle Body Code P2135

28K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  New to the Nox 
#1 ·
Driving home I had a message engine power reduced, stability tracking turned off. I was able to drive but no faster than 42 mph. Scanned code came up P2135. Did some research and found that the throttle body sensor failed. This puts the car in one mode to drive, 5th gear and higher RPM's. On my car there is no way to just replace the sensor. I ordered an AC Delco throttle body and gasket from Rock Auto for $129. A very easy job to replace.
Loosen hose clamps on the air intake cover and remove. Snap off the plastic engine cover underneath that, Remove the 4 bolts that hold the throttle body in place. Disconnect wiring connector, remove gasket. Replace in opposite order.
Re-learn procedure. Start engine let idle for 3 minutes, turn off for 2 minutes, then idle again for 3 minutes. It may take up to 50 miles for the computer to learn the throttle body. I have since driven 400 miles and car is idling normally and I have no codes.
 
#3 ·
rjs0421 said:
Driving home I had a message engine power reduced, stability tracking turned off. I was able to drive but no faster than 42 mph. Scanned code came up P2135. Did some research and found that the throttle body sensor failed. This puts the car in one mode to drive, 5th gear and higher RPM's. On my car there is no way to just replace the sensor. I ordered an AC Delco throttle body and gasket from Rock Auto for $129. A very easy job to replace.
Loosen hose clamps on the air intake cover and remove. Snap off the plastic engine cover underneath that, Remove the 4 bolts that hold the throttle body in place. Disconnect wiring connector, remove gasket. Replace in opposite order.
Re-learn procedure. Start engine let idle for 3 minutes, turn off for 2 minutes, then idle again for 3 minutes. It may take up to 50 miles for the computer to learn the throttle body. I have since driven 400 miles and car is idling normally and I have no codes.
I agree, it is easy. One thing I like about the Terrain is that GM made some DYI stuff easy to access and do.

This Summer i'm going to attempt to do my own Spark Plugs.
 
#5 ·
Nick24 said:
When I change the spark plugs i'm going to clean the Thrttle Body too.

Any cleaner GM recommends?
Most just use CRC brand.
 
#7 ·
This "drive-by-wire" stuff is troubling to me. In fact, all this 'electric motor' stuff is troubling. They keep replacing all the rugged, time-tested solutions with these electric motors. No more hydraulic steering; electric steering now. No more gas pedal connected to throttle by cable; more electric motors and sensors now.

The old-fashioned systems worked just fine. And when they failed (if they *ever* failed), the failure wasn't catastrophic.

Now, you've got more points of failure, and the components can fail suddenly without warning (except for a chime and a faint message to let you know something *just* happened). Thanks a lot.

I think the engineers are getting carried away with implementing solutions that are only more efficient *on paper*, while also neglecting the cost of these decisions in terms of reliability and, more importantly - driver safety.
 
#8 ·
I don't recommend it for everyone, but I like to use brake cleaner to clean throttle bodies. It's pretty aggressive at cleaning, and it evaporates more quickly than most other stuff I've tried. As it turns out, it's actually in the service manual for some Chrysler and Fords as some how throttle body cleaner can damage a coating on them :shrug:
I just always had break parts cleaner on hold anyway, and it ended up as my go-to.
 
#9 ·
Colt Hero said:
This "drive-by-wire" stuff is troubling to me. In fact, all this 'electric motor' stuff is troubling. They keep replacing all the rugged, time-tested solutions with these electric motors. No more hydraulic steering; electric steering now. No more gas pedal connected to throttle by cable; more electric motors and sensors now.

The old-fashioned systems worked just fine. And when they failed (if they *ever* failed), the failure wasn't catastrophic.

Now, you've got more points of failure, and the components can fail suddenly without warning (except for a chime and a faint message to let you know something *just* happened). Thanks a lot.

I think the engineers are getting carried away with implementing solutions that are only more efficient *on paper*, while also neglecting the cost of these decisions in terms of reliability and, more importantly - driver safety.
Cables to control things are for *elderly* people. Young people want electronics. Kind of like a boom box vs an IPod.

LOL !

The electrical steering was done for improving gas mileage, and drive by wire is probably the same thing - better feedback to know exactly where the throttle is. Unfortunately, we're probably going to see more use of electronics controlling mechanical stuff - like brakes - yikes ! Next will be cameras instead of rear and side-view mirrors. That will take a c-change in drivers actions, but it will probably be nice once people get used to it. Side-view mirrors hurt Cd, and generate noise.

:soapbox:
 
#10 ·
Buggsy said:
I don't recommend it for everyone, but I like to use brake cleaner to clean throttle bodies. It's pretty aggressive at cleaning, and it evaporates more quickly than most other stuff I've tried. As it turns out, it's actually in the service manual for some Chrysler and Fords as some how throttle body cleaner can damage a coating on them :shrug:
I just always had break parts cleaner on hold anyway, and it ended up as my go-to.
I would have to strongly disagree with this. Brake cleaner has the most potential to ruin the coating on the throttle body. I agree with JayT, I've used CRC brand throttle body cleaner for my 2011 2.4l.
 
#11 ·
Rit said:
Cables to control things are for *elderly* people. Young people want electronics. Kind of like a boom box vs an IPod.

LOL !

The electrical steering was done for improving gas mileage, and drive by wire is probably the same thing - better feedback to know exactly where the throttle is. Unfortunately, we're probably going to see more use of electronics controlling mechanical stuff - like brakes - yikes ! Next will be cameras instead of rear and side-view mirrors. That will take a c-change in drivers actions, but it will probably be nice once people get used to it. Side-view mirrors hurt Cd, and generate noise.

:soapbox:
+1

And. . . I guess most commercial and military aircraft better quit flying, because they have been "fly by wire" for years.

I agree that technology for * technology's sake * is not always necessary or a good thing. But use of electronic throttle control is a natural progression since there already is an ECM or PCM on board which gives us the fuel economy and power improvements we now enjoy.

Interesting, though, what seems to qualify to some as an "elderly" label. . . lol
 
#12 ·
Nick24 said:
When I change the spark plugs i'm going to clean the Thrttle Body too.

Any cleaner GM recommends?
Hi Nick,
I've just been through this and done that with my 2011 l4

I did alot of research on this before hand (OCD issues lol)

Figured that someone else could use this info as they browse this website.

I recommend using the ACDelco OEM spark plugs. They are iridium's and already pregapped to .40. While some parts can be and should be replaced with non OEM, spark plugs probably shouldn't be.
Don't try to gap them, iridiums break off easily.

ACDelco sand GM does not recommend anti-siez and at 58,000 they came out just fine.
15 flbs of touque... And I recommend getting magnetic socket but one with grommet should work fine.

No wiring to unhook accept socket boots which are bolted in.

When removing the intake cover (ecotec written on it) just disconnect from throttle body and air filter housing and pop it off from a couple of rear grommets.
There is a tube that runs off the crankcase connected to it and is easy unplugged. This tube is the crankcase ventilation tube. It may have sludge in it. Blow it out. There is a "catch can" inside the intake cover that catches this sludge. I recommend dumping it out through the that hole.

The plastic engine cover is also easy to remove.. take off oil cap and pop it off 3 grommets. When I did this I put it back on with one of the grommets popped out. I got a lot of rattling when I started it and thought "oh crap what did I do now" lol

Regarding the throttle body. Don't be afraid to remove it.
Unhook the battery. Unhook the wiring to the throttle body. There is a tab that needs to be pushed back on it before unclipping...tricky.
I used CRC throttle body cleaner and a cloth. Don't hit the motor housing. Otherwise clean it like any other throttle body. I ordered a new seal in case mine was bad and returned it to AAP when I didn't need it.

After cleaning and reconnecting everything, the ECM has to reset itself for the now clean throttle body.
This worked great, start car and let idle for 3 minutes. Turn it off for 1 minute. Start car again. Idle should have dropped down and runs good... Especially after cleaning one that was a cruddy as mine. Mine went from 950 - 1000 rpm idle down to about 750 - 800 rpm 😊

There are a couple of links I will find and share later.
 
#16 ·
New to the Nox said:
I would have to strongly disagree with this. Brake cleaner has the most potential to ruin the coating on the throttle body. I agree with JayT, I've used CRC brand throttle body cleaner for my 2011 2.4l.
You'd be surprised. I've used break cleaner for 20 years without an issue. Break cleaner isn't that harsh. It's the only thing the service manual for some Chyslers and Fords allow on their coated throttle bodies. I stated it with caution mostly because I don't want to make some broad statement for all past and future throttle bodies. I'm not aware of any GM throttle bodies with a coating (though all the throttle plates within should have a coating of some sort), but you shouldn't do anything you are not comfortable with.

Just to be clear, I'm not arguing against throttle body cleaner. I'm sure it works good. I want to give an alternative that's pretty well known. Just don't use carb cleaner at all. That will leave a lot of residue that will cause faster build up of dirt. I did that a few times on my first car and later learned that it wasn't the car's fault for always being dirty.
 
#17 ·
Buggsy said:
You'd be surprised. I've used break cleaner for 20 years without an issue. Break cleaner isn't that harsh. It's the only thing the service manual for some Chyslers and Fords allow on their coated throttle bodies. I stated it with caution mostly because I don't want to make some broad statement for all past and future throttle bodies. I'm not aware of any GM throttle bodies with a coating (though all the throttle plates within should have a coating of some sort), but you shouldn't do anything you are not comfortable with.

Just to be clear, I'm not arguing against throttle body cleaner. I'm sure it works good. I want to give an alternative that's pretty well known. Just don't use carb cleaner at all. That will leave a lot of residue that will cause faster build up of dirt. I did that a few times on my first car and later learned that it wasn't the car's fault for always being dirty.
Sorry if I came off a bit strong.
I see that you mentioned that Ford and Chrysler say to use brake cleaner.
Wow. You are probably right.
I believe that the plate is coated on GM but someone would have to verify that.
I just know that most online guides say throttle body cleaner and I do see discussion about the use of brake cleaner...And than some arguments over this 😏
 
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