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Author Topic: installed fog bezels and lights on 2010 Chevy Equinox...sharing photos  (Read 18030 times)
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emb1911
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« on: September 04, 2010, 07:07:04 AM »

Just installed fog light bezels and Fog lights and wanted to share my pics for anyone else interested in doing this yourself. I was going for the look and did not wire the lights yet. I was planning on having a professional install the wiring/switch. Hope this helps anyone wishing to do this. Bezels were $35 each and lights were $116 each all from Local GM dealer. Gives the NOX a great chrome type look replacing the factory fillers. I have few more photos but could only get 4 photos on this post.

First unclipped the existing fillers carefully from behind bumper, broke tab and kept existing screw. Second Snapped in new light bezels and put the screw back in from behind the bumper. and lastly snapped in the fog light from behind the bumper/fog bezel. Take your time only took about an hour to do all this. Not overly complicated actually very simple for the most part.
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NoobNox
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« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2010, 08:34:41 AM »

Thanks for the pics, they should be helpful to those who want to replace the plastic inserts at some point. I'm still baffled as to why GM chose to not only leave the foglights off the LS and 1LT Nox..but also not offer them as an option? Roll Eyes Luckily I got a good deal on a 2LT, but I was initially looking at a 1LT and the dealer told me that you couldn't order the fogs in that trim, and there was also no wiring behind the filler..
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2010 Equinox 2LT Silver Ice metallic, 2.4 I4, 2WD, Titanium leather
jdbellows
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« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2010, 08:33:04 AM »

Great pictures.  Do you have any more to share?  Also, did you have to remove the bumper to get in from behind?  Thanks!!
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emb1911
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« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2010, 03:47:45 PM »

I do have some more pics, could only post 4. Maybe i could email them to you. I did not have to remove the front bumper at all. I just drove up on my Rhino ramps and got under the front. It was pretty simple, not difficult at all. Inserting the lights seemed like they didn't fit the bezels correctly but it all makes sense after you install the bezels they just pop right in from behind. No screws for lights necessary. One screw for bezel. Little challenging for my big hands to get the screw in but had no problems.
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GFab
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« Reply #4 on: October 15, 2010, 01:35:28 PM »

I wanted the fog lights also but settled for a 2011 1LT instead because of money and time constraints. Where is the actual switch for the fog lights on the 2LT or LTZ models? I would like to do what you did but I don't want to put in an aftermarket switch which wouldn't look like it belonged in the interior.
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2011 1LT Cyber Gray, Jet Black Interior, Sunroof, Drivers Convience Package.
TheCrow1994
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« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2010, 03:55:12 PM »

I wanted the fog lights also but settled for a 2011 1LT instead because of money and time constraints. Where is the actual switch for the fog lights on the 2LT or LTZ models? I would like to do what you did but I don't want to put in an aftermarket switch which wouldn't look like it belonged in the interior.

The fog light switch is located on the turn signal stalk.
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2010 'Nox
Mocha Steel Metallic LTZ
4 Cyl AWD
17" Wheels
Navigation & Sunroof
Jet Black/Brownstone Leather
Weathertech DigitalFit Floorliners & Cargo Liner
Built 6/11/10 - Received 7/1/10
GFab
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« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2010, 04:02:10 PM »

Thanks Crow

Wouldn't that be a very laborous job to wire them up? Not a job for an amature like me.
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2011 1LT Cyber Gray, Jet Black Interior, Sunroof, Drivers Convience Package.
uzie
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« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2010, 05:29:11 PM »

Do you have any pictures of how you broke off the old plastic plug?
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2011 Equinox 1LT - I4 - Black Granite - Jet Black
emb1911
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« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2010, 06:46:04 PM »

I do have a picture of the broken plastic plug but not sure how that would help. I will post it if i am able. You have to be very careful if you are going to break the old plastic plug. If I remember correctly I kind of carefully twisted it till it snapped. Hope that helps.
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emb1911
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« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2010, 06:48:50 PM »

I took the car to Auto Express in Doylestown, PA and they wired up my fogs and did a remote starter. awesome ! They installed a switch for fogs directly in the dash next to light panel dimmer. Rocks!... Nice job Auto Express.
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no_limit_larry
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« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2011, 06:17:24 PM »

I plan on doing this to my 11 nox. Mine doesn't come with fogs, obviously but i think im going to wire mine to come on with the dnls. that way they will be on regardless if low beams or highs are on. I will be installing hid for fogs as well. I will take some pics and the steps i taken when i get them ordered and installed
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longjnsilver
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« Reply #11 on: July 12, 2011, 11:39:37 AM »

Hey, Guys. If you want, send me all your pics and I can put them on my website on a special page viewable only to members of our forum.
(I did this for a Subaru Outback forum when we were all dealing with the 2010s and 2011s that have the steering shake problem - I posted the
Subaru of America TSBs so the guys could download them.)

If that sounds cool, send them to:

johnwadelong@gmail.com - and on the subject line, specify "Equinox Fog Lights"

I'd also like to know how much the guys at AUTO EXPRESS charged for wiring the fog lights and installing the switch! THANKS!

- Johnny -

Hendersonville NC
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soccerstuf
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« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2011, 10:43:20 AM »

Just installed fog light bezels and Fog lights and wanted to share my pics for anyone else interested in doing this yourself. I was going for the look and did not wire the lights yet. I was planning on having a professional install the wiring/switch. Hope this helps anyone wishing to do this. Bezels were $35 each and lights were $116 each all from Local GM dealer. Gives the NOX a great chrome type look replacing the factory fillers. I have few more photos but could only get 4 photos on this post.

First unclipped the existing fillers carefully from behind bumper, broke tab and kept existing screw. Second Snapped in new light bezels and put the screw back in from behind the bumper. and lastly snapped in the fog light from behind the bumper/fog bezel. Take your time only took about an hour to do all this. Not overly complicated actually very simple for the most part.

Are you saying you got the bezels from the dealer for only $35??? The lights sound a little expensive when I saw them online for less.... don't know if they are exactly the same tho... did you look outside the dealer and find they aren't the right parts?
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shardin
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« Reply #13 on: October 23, 2011, 11:40:47 AM »

Are you saying you got the bezels from the dealer for only $35??? The lights sound a little expensive when I saw them online for less.... don't know if they are exactly the same tho... did you look outside the dealer and find they aren't the right parts?

PN           Desc                        Source              Qty    Cost
10335108   Lamp Assy                Ebay                1           $60.00  (for 2 lamps)
20847185   Bezel                      Gmpartsdirect        1           $29.17
20847186   Bezel                        Gmpartsdirect        1           $29.17
NPN           Harness                Ebay                1           $72.00
Shipping                           Gmpartsdirect        1           $28.38
Shipping                                Harness   Ebay        1           $9.80

Lamps are listed for an '08 Malibu and fit and work fine.
The harness has a relay and the connectors to fit the lamps.  


Sorry for the poor alignment on the table....
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2012 Equinox Twilight Blue 1Lt  AWD, driver convenience, and all weather options.
Installed: 2LT Fog lights and Foot well courtesy lamps
richiedw
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« Reply #14 on: September 25, 2012, 06:35:14 AM »

I purchased fog lights and wiring harness from Ipex motoring Inc online for 72.00 dollars. I purchased the bezels online for GM wholesale for 35 dollars each. I used a youtube video to install the lamps and bezel. It was real simple. The back side of the lamp opening can easily be reached from under the bumper without removing anything. As far as the wiring goes, I installed the relay on the front of the engine compartment using an existing 10 mm screw infront of the battery. I also grounded the black wire from the relay on the same screw. I then dropped the wires going to the lamps  straight down  and plugged the drivers side lamp in first. Then I worked the rest of the wire across the front and on top of the frame to the passenger side lamp and plugged the passenger side lamp in.  I tie wrapped the wire to the top of the frame.
I removed the lower dash panel below and to the left of the steering wheel, which is held in position by two 7 mm screws. The panel will pop off easily by tugging on it. I drilled a 3/8 inch hole through the fire wall into the engine compartment under the dash below the steering wheel by moving the carpet and padding out of the way. I ran a piece of scrap wire through the hole under the dash into the engine compartment. Then I used a coat hanger with a hook bent on the end of it to snag the wire in the engine compartment. This was my pull wire. I  cut the three wire plug from the white black and red wire and taped the wires to the pull wire and pulled them into the area beneath the steering wheel. Then I taped the three wires with electrical tape near the hole to create protection for the wires and pushed the tape into the hole. I cut the switch off of the Ipex supplied cord. I didn't want to tie wrap the cheap switch to the turn signal arm, which is what was recommended. I bought a lighted switch and soldered the smaller wires to the terminals on the switch. I drilled a 1/2 inch hole through the dash panel above the dome/dimmer switch and and then installed the new switch. It was secured on the inside of the dash with a threaded plastic nut. It was easy to reach the back side of the switch. I then butt spliced the small wires to the larger wire that were pulled through the firewall. I then put the dash panel back into place.
I opend the fuse box in the engine compartment and drilled two small holes on the back side of the fuse box. I ran the two red power wires, from the relay and the switch, through the small holes. I squeezed a female spade terminal on the end of both wires and plugged them onto two hot male terminals in the fuse box. You have to use a volt meter or test device to determine the hot terminals. I grounded the switch black wire to a ground post next to the fuse box. It is marked as a negetive ground post. I re-installed the fuse box cover and tested the switch. It worked great.
I hope this helps 
 
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