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Author Topic: 2012 Equinox Speakers, Sub and Amps Install.  (Read 13427 times)
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Wildlands
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« on: June 07, 2012, 08:18:42 AM »

So I haven't seen many builds that put a stereo system into an Equinox, but I did get some good advice here on information removing door panels, and on electronics, so I wanted to give some info back to the community.

The install is on a Granite Black 2012 LTZ, 3.0 (upgraded alternator)

The intent is to keep the system as low profile as possible, retaining as much room and stock function as possible. The interior was removed for sound deadening additions, and replaced to retain stock look.

With this in mind, the factory headunit was retained, and speaker level outs were used to provide sound to the processor, which then fed the amps at an RCA level out.

The equipment was mostly recovered from my 1997 Tahoe, only the capacitor, Punch Pro tweeters and midranges are new:
Rockford Fosgate 360.2 sound processor (this takes the speaker levels and turns them to RCA levels and provides a remote turn on switch for the amps, plus having significant time delay and level setting capability for each channel)
Rockford Fosgate 1501BD monoblock amp
Rockford Fosgate 851x 4 channel amp
Rockford Fosgate T600.2 2 channel amp
Eclipse SW9152 15" subwoofer
2 Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro 5" tweeters
2 Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro 6.6 midrange
2 Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro 8" midranges
Rockford Fosgate 40 Farad Capacitor

The overall build has the tweeters built into the kick panels near the feet of the driver and passenger, this required some modification. These will be amplified by 2 channels of the 851x, crossed highpass at 4k. The 6.5's replace the stock speakers in the front door, they are baffled to protect from moisture, and the door sound deadened, powered by the 3rd and 4th channels of the 851x, crossed 4kHz, and 400hz. The 8" midranges are in the stock rear door speakers after resizing the holes, replacing the 6" wizzer coned stock speaker, with significant door sound deadening, powered by the T600.2, crossed at 400hz and 70hz. The sub handles 70hz and below.

The subwoofer is being built into a fiberglass box that sits in the spare tire well, centered.  The tire mount bracket was drilled at the spot rivets and then folded down to the floor. The sub will fire up at the ceiling and the sub amp and 4 channel amp and sub amp (matching silver) will go in a row behind the seat. The capacitor is mounted to the right of the sub along the rear wheel cover where the original sub was. The sound processor and T600 amp are mounted in the stock sub area. A false floor will cover the subs and amps, raising the level of the back deck about 4-5 inches, losing a little room for transport, but still allowing bikes to be thrown in the back, dogs to walk on it, and the transport of a spare tire if needed (I just use AAA).

A few notes, the stock sub area has a lot of room. The driver side contains electronics and pumps for the rear washer, which prevented any installation on that side. On the stock sub side, we were suprised to find the wheel sat out closer to the center of the car than the driver side well. This is due to an extra metal plate that covers over the gas intake , which makes the sub area quite deep. We had to fabricate a mounting bracket using the sub connections as a template, but we were able to fit an amp and processor in the area, as well as significant wiring.

The tweeters are massive, and have 3" mounting depth. Even after building two 3/4 inch MDF rings to lift them off the kick panels, there was still not enough room on the passenger side to accomodate the depth. The stock panel has a clip right in the center where the speaker hole is being cut, where it mounts on to a raised metal panel. That panel is being beaten into submission to get about a half inch of depth necessary to fit the tweeter's magnet.

The install should be done today or tomorrow,and I should have some pics of the build, though it won't seem to let me post. Lighting is still coming, but some of the finishing details require some planning, and that will be added after the sound is complete.

Edit: Trying for pics:








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Scottbjr
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« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2012, 01:01:27 PM »

rockford everything thumbs up thumbs up thumbs up Cheers
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Nutz1
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« Reply #2 on: June 09, 2012, 08:05:59 PM »

Wow seriously awesome custom install.  Is it finished?  I am curious to see the impact to the cargo area, and how you do all the wiring.

P.S. when you get to 5 posts, you can post images.
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2011 Nox 1LT 2.4L FWD / Mocha Steel / Jet Black / premium sound / driver conv. package.
DIY Mods: OEM foglights, 2" hitch, roofrack, dynamat in front doors, OEM splash guards, OEM footwell lamps
Wildlands
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« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2012, 10:12:20 PM »

It is in and running, though it is not finished. The stock tweeters are being used until we find a decent method of installing the new Punch Pro 5" tweeters in the kicks. The rear cargo cover needs to be completed, it will have poly carb windows to see the amps and cap, and an audio transparent metal grill to protect the sub, so that the rear cargo equipment is totally protected.

And it's all Fosgate, except for the subwoofer. I started with Pyle, Eminence, Carver, Orion, Eclipse, Fosgate and various other brands. I replaced items as they failed or needed upgrades. The Fosgate stuff, and the Eclipse sub (I have a spare basket/cone replacement) have never needed replacement, and I eventually ended up with all Fosgate, and the most bullet proof sub ever.

I'll add some more images as I get some. I have been too busy listening to take pics!

img14.imageshack.us/img14/8044/imag0730p.jpg
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jodshelt
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« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2012, 04:43:14 PM »

Hi, I am trying and trying to get my 50W amplified Bazooka Bass tube hooked up to my 2011 Base Equinox.  From reading other posts on the site, i figured the wiring to tap into was under the steering column in a green plug.  THe kit came with a F.A.S.T connecter which consists of LF +/-, RF +/-, Power and remote.  After i tied these in to the appropriate colors in the green plug (wire colors found from a posting with Audio Schematics on the forum) i lost my turn signals, cruise and passenger airbag would stay on.
Obviouly this was not the correct plug. 

Can anyone please let me know which wires i need to tap into?  I really want to get this installed myself without having to take to a install shop. 

Thanks in advance for your help.

Joe
2011 Nox, Cyber Grey AWD-Base w/bluetooth
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flip_high_up
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« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2012, 07:29:47 PM »

Better pictures please you link doesn't work
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jodshelt
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« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2012, 10:05:05 PM »

Where in the world are the speaker wire pre-outs? I have a self amplified Bazooka Tube and all i need to hook up to is the RF +/-, LF +/-, Remote and Power.  I tried looking under the dash but there are so many wire harnesses.  i have no idea which plug to use and which colors to match to.  If you can provide any insight into this, please let me know. you help is much appreciated.
 Bang Head
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Iliketerrain
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« Reply #7 on: June 19, 2012, 06:09:58 AM »

Try these:

LF + = TN/WH
LF - = D-GR
RF + = L-GN/WH
RF - = OG/BK

Power is RD/WH

The service manual indicates a switched line from the radio to the amp
but the schematic doesn't show it
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« Reply #8 on: June 23, 2012, 07:24:12 PM »

Try these:

LF + = TN/WH
LF - = D-GR
RF + = L-GN/WH
RF - = OG/BK

Power is RD/WH

The service manual indicates a switched line from the radio to the amp
but the schematic doesn't show it

Are these high or low level?
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jackiek
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« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2012, 08:36:27 PM »

It is in and running, though it is not finished. The stock tweeters are being used until we find a decent method of installing the new Punch Pro 5" tweeters in the kicks. The rear cargo cover needs to be completed, it will have poly carb windows to see the amps and cap, and an audio transparent metal grill to protect the sub, so that the rear cargo equipment is totally protected.

And it's all Fosgate, except for the subwoofer. I started with Pyle, Eminence, Carver, Orion, Eclipse, Fosgate and various other brands. I replaced items as they failed or needed upgrades. The Fosgate stuff, and the Eclipse sub (I have a spare basket/cone replacement) have never needed replacement, and I eventually ended up with all Fosgate, and the most bullet proof sub ever. Do you do a lot of driving? Seems like a lot of work, time and money unless you spend a lot of time in your car.

I'll add some more images as I get some. I have been too busy listening to take pics!

img14.imageshack.us/img14/8044/imag0730p.jpg
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2012 1LT Equinox
Purchased 1/25/12
Remote Start
8 position power driver seat
Gold Mist Metallic
jodshelt
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« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2012, 10:47:34 AM »

Try these:

LF + = TN/WH
LF - = D-GR
RF + = L-GN/WH
RF - = OG/BK

Power is RD/WH

The service manual indicates a switched line from the radio to the amp
but the schematic doesn't show it

thanks for the info above, could ou please let me know where this harness is located? Behind CD player or stereo interface...etc? thanks again
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Iliketerrain
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« Reply #11 on: June 29, 2012, 11:48:15 AM »

Checking another page in the service manual, I found that the remote
power enable wire for the amp is White. I don't have the manual right now,
but I'll see how the harness is routed from the radio to the amp.
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jodshelt
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« Reply #12 on: July 02, 2012, 09:53:01 AM »

Checking another page in the service manual, I found that the remote
power enable wire for the amp is White. I don't have the manual right now,
but I'll see how the harness is routed from the radio to the amp.



THANKS so much for looking into this. I removed the cover housing the factory sub in the back and found a four wire plug going into the speaker. Since mine is base, i suppose that Pioneer speaker is only for noise control.  I am not having any luck finding the location of the wire harness to splice into.
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Wildlands
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« Reply #13 on: July 06, 2012, 02:43:07 PM »

Sorry for the update delays. The tweeters are still being fabricated. The "High Voltage" and "Danger: Laser Radiation"logos are still under construction for the rear cover. The 405 nm (purple) lasers feeding the light pipe charging system for the GITD subwoofer ring are still being designed.

Here's some pics of the kick panels, cut out for 5" tweeters, drilled for stiffening when fiberglassed, with two 3/4 inch MDF rings.






Here's the lightpipe, fed by a 445 nm (blue) laser.
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Wildlands
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« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2012, 06:58:29 AM »

Ok, let's try some more.

One note, under the passenger side, front kick panel there is a plug that leads from the stereo to the speakers. Since we use the speaker outs to feed the processor, we need those active. This came unsnapped during the kick panel re-install, and took some trouble shooting to figure out what went wrong. Basically, rear speakers/sub stopped working, while the signal to the front tweets/midranges remained fine. The plug had come partially unsnapped when re-positioning wires for the speaker mount area, which separated the contacts for some of the speakers. So, if you need a plug to tap, check under the kickpanels to the passenger side.

Tweeter kick panels, still under fabrication.
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/6294/imag0787v.jpg

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5784/imag0789d.jpg


Kicks, Finished and in place. Forgive the debris, my Nox is a daily driver.
http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/127/imag0808r.jpg

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/7817/imag0809k.jpg

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/592/imag0810k.jpg


Rear cargo cover that goes over the sub, amps, and cap. It is still in progress, with emblems and a grill cover being fabricated using cloth that will prevent debris from cargo from going into the sub area.
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/3950/imag0790lz.jpg

It is not set in flat, so it will sit a little lower, retaining all but 5 inches of rear cargo floor room.
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/1363/imag0803l.jpg




A shot of the rear cargo area. Lighting is not yet installed.
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/6592/imag0792b.jpg


Another shot, into the sub area.
http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/7929/imag0795ef.jpg


Some shots of the car.
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/3720/imag0793s.jpg


http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9249/imag0794w.jpg


More to come with finished switch panels, warning logos, and laser powered lightpipe.
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Nutz1
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« Reply #15 on: July 18, 2012, 09:12:51 AM »

Wow.  thumbs up Shocked Grin

Two questions:
Tweeters at your feet?
Are you afraid of busting the speaker with your foot?
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2011 Nox 1LT 2.4L FWD / Mocha Steel / Jet Black / premium sound / driver conv. package.
DIY Mods: OEM foglights, 2" hitch, roofrack, dynamat in front doors, OEM splash guards, OEM footwell lamps
Wildlands
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« Reply #16 on: July 18, 2012, 10:10:20 AM »

Wow.  thumbs up Shocked Grin

Two questions:
Tweeters at your feet?
Are you afraid of busting the speaker with your foot?

Not on the driver side. On the passenger side, yes, to some degree. When I had kick panels in my Tahoe, they had plastic grills covering the mid ranges, covered by gray grill cloth. They looked like part of the car, and on the driver side, they stayed in mint condition for 9 years! However, the passenger side did not fare as well. Almost every single girl would get in and promptly step on the speaker to push herself back in the seat. This caused some premature failure. So the plastic grill was remade with steel, and survived many feet.

The tweeters are pretty much protected from a kick, they are rugged, and a flat slap across the face will not damage them in anyway.  They do not protrude much, about 3 inches. There's no moving surfaces exposed like a midrange, as the tweeter diaphragm is located well back in the horn-like mounting area. The batmanesque cone looking thing is called a phase plug, and it could be dented, but I am so used to having kickpanels for 9 years in my Tahoe, my feet are trained to stay away from the area. On the passenger side, two curved metal rods mounted across the speaker face will protect the phase plug from inadvertent feet.

EDIT: I also wanted to address the implied question on the sound of the tweeters coming from that area. How good does it sound? Actually, quite excellent. The stock tweeters fire from the A-Pillars near the windshield into the windshield itself. That smears the sound a little. The Fosgate Punch Pro tweeters are more efficient and have a better quality of sound than the stock tweeters. The placement at the feet allows for more distance to develop, allowing for better imaging. We actually are still using the stock tweeters to help "pull" the soundstage up a bit. The mind and ears are a little tricky. A slightly louder sound is heard and processed before quieter, and with the Fosgates being slightly louder, that is the sound your mind hears, but with the addition of the stock tweeter sound pulling the reference slightly higher, you perceive the sound image as coming from in front of you. It's a neat trick, and Mike Mavadones of Pine Tree Mobile Sound helped tweak this out.
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Wildlands
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« Reply #17 on: September 14, 2012, 05:37:14 AM »



1.21 Gigawatts for this Nox.
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