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Author Topic: Cleaner than Factory! Claying a Terrain...  (Read 22617 times)
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scottyyyc
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« on: May 12, 2010, 07:08:30 PM »

Gave the Terrain its first clay this evening. It looks better and it's cleaner then how it was delivered to me.

The secret here is claying - the process of rubbing clay over the surface of the car to remove the thin layer of crap that no amount of washing can get. After claying, the surface of the vehicle feels glassy smooth - and this is before any wax or polish. Waxing is a process of cleaning - you're not adding chemials, polishes, waxes, or anything of the sort. You're simply cleaning the surface (but perhaps waxing afterwards if you like...).

Anyhow, a quick and tell for the folks here at terrainforum.net! Keep in mind, Jewel Merlot is the only color worth showing off  Grin

Materials I used: Several clean microfiber cloths, claying kit (which includes a clay bar(s) and lubricant) (I used this Meguires kit), and some good music.

1. Wash the car. I took it to a good local washer, but did just a basic wash. You don't want to apply waxes or other chemicals.

2. Started the clay process once the vehicle was dry. You spray a generous amount of lubricant (included in the clay kit) onto a surface of the vehicle (I started with the hood), and then lightly move the clay back and forth along the surface (no circular motions). You'll immediately feel the clay picking up all sorts of stuff. After a pass or two, you will feel the surface becoming smooth. Once the section is complete, wipe the rest of the lubricant off with a clean cloth. You'll notice the surface has gotten very clean/smooth.

Before:



After Clay (no waxes / polishes added [yet]). The surface feels like glass:



Look at how much dirt a single pass with a bit of clay did (again, on a freshly "cleaned" car). I folded over the clay several times, so about 20x this much dirt was removed, JUST on the front end, AFTER the car was "cleaned".



3. Proceed with Wax/Polish. I use Meguires No.2 polish w/ carnuba wax. It's treated me well over the years:



4. Repeat all over...

This evening I did only the front end (front quarter panels, hood, bumper). Here's some more after pictures:

Before - Clean'ish, but not truly showroom clean. If you run your hand along the surface, it's smooth, but not glassy smooth:


After:

(Note, the doors weren't done)



Any questions you have are welcome.
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« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2010, 07:31:55 PM »

Thanks for the info. I agree with your colour choice as well   wink   I pick mine up tomorrow at 1 PM...........I can't wait!!!
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« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2010, 04:16:14 AM »

Wow, that looks great!
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« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2010, 04:28:29 AM »

Looks great... although it seems like a lot of work.  How long does such a look last?

What is the risk of scratching the clearcoat/paint with that clay process?

Merlot is a really nice colour... I love red vehicles and would have gone with Merlot if the shade was just a little more red.  Carbon black metallic is totally the wrong choice for someone like me that doesn't take the time to even hand wash.  Heck, most of the time I just hit a manual car wash and use the spray (no soap) to get some of the road grime off.  My Terrain has not been literally touched in the six months I've owned it.
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« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2010, 05:35:57 AM »

wow, that looks awesome scotty!  i've always been a little apprehensive about claying since i've never done it, but i may need to look into it now.  though i'm sure doing the entire vehicle would take quite a while.
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« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2010, 06:00:10 AM »

wow, that looks awesome scotty!  i've always been a little apprehensive about claying since i've never done it, but i may need to look into it now.  though i'm sure doing the entire vehicle would take quite a while.

Yeah i was apprehensive too the first time, but i practiced on one of our older cars first.  Truthfully the older car needed it worse of course, but i was able to get the technique down.  And yes doing the whole vehicle takes a while...
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« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2010, 06:58:54 AM »

We purchased the Sym Tech lifetime Paint and Rust Warranty.
Any ideas if claying would have a detrimental effect whatsoever?

Our Terrain has only had hand, soft cloth and no-touch car washes since purchase and still looks fabulous 8 months, IMHO.
I may give claying a try on our older cars, but can't remember if they had any "treatment" by the dealer.
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« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2010, 07:05:14 AM »

Looks great... although it seems like a lot of work.  How long does such a look last?

I won't lie, it's a fair amount of work. To do the whole car, you can write off an afternoon. That being said, keeping the car cleaned and waxed helps keep it cleaner, longer, since dirt has a hard time adhering to the surface.

Also keep in mind the long-term picture, the cleaner you keep something, the longer it keeps looking new. Clay/Wax a couple times a year and your car will look factory new in 10 years.

What is the risk of scratching the clearcoat/paint with that clay process?

If you're reasonably careful, very low. The theory is you've cleaned the car fairly well before starting the clay, so there's only a small layer of dirt that you need to remove (and hence why only clay can remove it). If you keep folding the clay over (so you have a clean clay surface), and use lots of lubricant, nothing should scratch, because the clay is doing its job.
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« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2010, 07:07:38 AM »

We purchased the Sym Tech lifetime Paint and Rust Warranty.
Any ideas if claying would have a detrimental effect whatsoever?

Don't think so. Again, claying is simply a cleaning process, you're not adding chemicals or removing chemicals. You're simply removing dirt from the surface, just like washing. Like I said in my previous post, as long as you're reasonable and making sure you're not being silly about it (i.e. claying a really dirty can without washing it first), there isn't much that claying will hurt. Again, it's just cleaning.
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« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2010, 07:20:07 AM »

Where do you get the "clay"?
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« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2010, 07:22:00 AM »

Don't think so. Again, claying is simply a cleaning process, you're not adding chemicals or removing chemicals. You're simply removing dirt from the surface, just like washing. Like I said in my previous post, as long as you're reasonable and making sure you're not being silly about it (i.e. claying a really dirty can without washing it first), there isn't much that claying will hurt. Again, it's just cleaning.
Sounds like a great way to spend a lazy summer afternoon!
I think I'll give it a whirl this summer on our other cars first for practice, then very gingerly do the Terrain!

I remeber about 8 years ago we had a 92 Vette professionally detailed, including clay.
My jaw dropped when I went to pick it up.
It was like a new car!

Thanks for the great info, scottyyc.
I think admin had a thread going here somewhere on claying as well.
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« Reply #11 on: May 13, 2010, 08:08:57 AM »

Started thinking about claying a couple years ago when I first heard of it. I use to show my Vettes in concourses in Texas and Illinois....never clayed them, but still always come out on top. Now I have to ask myself do I really want to spend hours and hours to get a somewhat better shine(that will last maybe a couple days because of rain etc)........nope(unless I was putting it in a car show).....I'd rather be out riding my Harley since we don't get very many nice days to ride.
My 10 year old Aztek and Vettes looked pretty much like they did when I bought them new....with just using Nu Finish Polish (not wax) 3 times a year.
Maybe we should look into having a Terrain/Nox get together once a year for fun & games AND a car show. That would give me incentive to clay the car.  Grin
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« Reply #12 on: May 13, 2010, 09:09:57 AM »

How dirty did the claybar end up after claying?

I first clayed my 2000 Camaro SS when I received it and the yellow bar turned
rust brown after just doing the roof and hood.  Claying new cars used to be
used to remove the rail dust (iron particles from the rail car wheels) from freshly
delivered vehicles.  Back in those days only Zaino Brothers sold claybars.  I still
swear by their polishes for durability.

My wife's 2004 Grand Prix had much less rail dust when delivered than my
Camaro.  Not sure if rail cars are covered nowadays and the amount of iron dust
is reduced from the old days.
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« Reply #13 on: May 13, 2010, 09:15:59 AM »

Where do you get the "clay"?

Mequiars makes a kit with all the necessary items.  It's usually available at Pep Boys, Autozone, Checker, Walmart and probably many more.

Claying really isn't necessary unless you can feel the roughness of the surface after washing/waxing.  It also works great on windows with water spots, etc.
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« Reply #14 on: May 13, 2010, 09:22:56 AM »

Mequiars makes a kit with all the necessary items.  It's usually available at Pep Boys, Autozone, Checker, Walmart and probably many more.

Claying really isn't necessary unless you can feel the roughness of the surface after washing/waxing.  It also works great on windows with water spots, etc.
Great tip, thanks JLF!
 Cool
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« Reply #15 on: May 13, 2010, 09:34:28 AM »

Hover over my reference to the Meguires clay kit, cause I linked to the kit I used.
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« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2010, 10:05:03 AM »

scotty, do you think the clay bar would eliminate that scuzzy film on windshields that nothing else seems to get off?
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« Reply #17 on: May 13, 2010, 11:33:45 AM »

I got my MeGuiers clay bar kit from Walmart for like $15 and it came with everything you need from the clay to the spray detailer/lubricant and even the microfiber cloth for cleaning off, even a small bottle of wax.  They say to put your hand in a plastic sandwhich bag and lightly drag your fingertips over the surface of the paint, and if it doesnt feel smooth as glass then it is time to clay!  Grin
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« Reply #18 on: May 13, 2010, 11:45:26 AM »

They also say if it hits the ground the clay hits the trash. It will scratch the finish with everything that stuck to it.
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« Reply #19 on: May 13, 2010, 12:38:02 PM »

scotty, do you think the clay bar would eliminate that scuzzy film on windshields that nothing else seems to get off?

My guess would be yes, because it does a great job of getting the scuzz off the body, but I have yet to try it. An old friend of mine is a window cleaner, and his secret is a razor-blade. Personally, I've never had an issue with this as I try to keep my windows fairly clean.
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« Reply #20 on: May 13, 2010, 02:24:46 PM »

I have used clay for years and swear by it.  Only need to do it two or three times a year to get off all of the crud.  When I bought my Terrain I also found a new line of products called Adams Polishes (www.AdamsPolishes.com).  I did the full clay, polish and two coats of wax.  Talk about smooth and clean!!!  This will take a good part of your day that is for sure!

I swear I dont work for them but the product is GREAT.  

Check out the picture to see how she looks.
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« Reply #21 on: May 13, 2010, 05:34:48 PM »

I've tried every product known to man to clean my windshields(not the Terrain---it's too new). There is some kind of ...watermark like stains. Can't see when dry, but shows up when the wipers are on in the rain.
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« Reply #22 on: May 13, 2010, 06:48:50 PM »

I've tried every product known to man to clean my windshields(not the Terrain---it's too new). There is some kind of ...watermark like stains. Can't see when dry, but shows up when the wipers are on in the rain.
Is it the same pattern that the wipers cover?
Could be very minor scratches from the wiper blades that have dirt on them.
They can usually be polished out, but can't remember the procedure.
Good idea to wipe the wipers clean every so often, lots of goop gets stuck on them, bugs, dirt, sand, etc.
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« Reply #23 on: May 13, 2010, 09:00:03 PM »

It's the whole window, blades have nothing to do with it. It's like a chemical stain. Roundish spots. It almost seems to be in the glass itself. All the rubbing doesn't seem to do anything. I was even thinking on getting one of those windshield polishing kits  with very fine abrasives, but I'm chicken to experiment on my cars.  Any volunteers? LOL
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« Reply #24 on: May 14, 2010, 03:49:51 AM »

It's the whole window, blades have nothing to do with it. It's like a chemical stain. Roundish spots. It almost seems to be in the glass itself. All the rubbing doesn't seem to do anything. I was even thinking on getting one of those windshield polishing kits  with very fine abrasives, but I'm chicken to experiment on my cars.  Any volunteers? LOL
Ahhh, I see!
Maybe go to a Speedy or Apple Auto Glass type place and get their opinion.
Maybe it was a batch of tainted glass?
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« Reply #25 on: May 14, 2010, 06:59:18 AM »

Duh!  I never thought of going to a glass specialist. Thanks for the tip gerahead.
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« Reply #26 on: May 14, 2010, 12:31:48 PM »

I worked in the datail shop at a dealer in the early 90's when clay was first hitting the market. It was such a relief to have that stuff. Before that we would have to spend hours buffing out the fallout. It was a big job.

I clay my cars about every 3 months and have had no issues with the paint scratching. The key is to soak the paint with the spray before putting the clay to the paint.

As far as cleaning the glass goes. I have always used the finest grade steel wool. It will not scratch the windows. We used it in the detail shop. Spray the glass cleaner on and wipe the steel wool across the glass and wip off. It works great for me.

Here's a little secret that we used for getting off tar, road grime and road paint from the lower portion of the cars. Lacquer Thinner. That's right. Lacquer Thinner.  I know what you are thinking. Well that will take the paint right off my car. It never has for me and it works wonders and makes a usually tough job easy. The main thing is to not over do it and to apply a good coat of wax afterwards. And of course never apply it to hot paint.
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« Reply #27 on: May 18, 2010, 10:51:42 AM »

also, as a head's up, Meguiar's has a $10 mail-in rebate offer going on through the end of June when you buy two products (one each from the groups listed below) which includes the clay kit:

Buy One of These Eligible Meguiar’s® Products:
• Headlight Restoration Kit (G1900K) • NXT Generation® Tech Wax® 2.0 liquid (G12718)
• Smooth Surface Clay Kit (G1016) • NXT Generation® Tech Wax® 2.0 paste (G12711)

AND One of These Meguiar’s® Products:
• Ultimate Wash & Wax (G17748) • Ultimate Quik Wax (G17516)
• Ultimate Protectant (G14512) • Ultimate Quik Detailer (G14422)
• Ultimate Compound (G17216)

it appears to not have any limitations on which store you purchase from, and Amazon is doing it as well.  link to rebate form below.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/00/00/07/42/72/12/742721250.pdf
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« Reply #28 on: August 30, 2010, 12:02:03 AM »

 I do practically the samething as Scotty...
  Wash...claybar...apply Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish(do small areas..and don't let it dry..rub in well..and buff to shine as you go)...but then I wax with Meguiars NXT Tech Wax 2.0. After future washes..I use Meguiars Ultimate Quick Detailer spray to restore and deepen the glossy finish(spray..spreadout quickly with one side of a folded towel..flip towel over to buff to shine. It's easy!). I only use 100% cotton towels made in the USA. USA made towels are actually the only true 100% cotton towels on the market. Others are labeled as all cotton..but are not..and can scratch the clearcoat. Cheaper micro fiber can also leave fine scratches.
 I actually do the whole process only in the spring and fall...using the detailer spray all summer. The combo of these polymers and this process offers a deep rich reflective shine that lasts. Meguiar has improved the lasting durability of their products during the last several years. I seem to sound like a Meguiar's salesman..but I am sold...after trying so many others. I had Turtle wax Ice...Zaino..Rejex...Mother's...and others sitting in my cabinet after only using them a couple times because Meguiars just worked better for me.  I finally cleaned out that cabinet and gave the other sealants to my son-in-laws and nephew.
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« Reply #29 on: August 30, 2010, 05:48:23 AM »

Try Bon Ami.  You can use it on glass .. Works great
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« Reply #30 on: October 29, 2010, 04:42:54 AM »

Agree completely on claying! Once you get the hang of it it's very easy but time consuming. The key is to keep the paint well lubricated at all times. I've done our Terrain yet and probably won't until next year.

Also agree on the Bon Ami for glass. I use it on our glass shower doors to remove dried on water spots. Excellent!
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« Reply #31 on: March 12, 2011, 07:56:04 PM »

I finally did the clay bar thing today on my Nox, it took about an hour including the roof and all painted surfaces.  I used the leftovers from the Meguiar's kit I bought last year.  http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+G1016

After washing the car I applied Quick Detailer spray and then used the clay bar and wiped it off with a microfiber towel.  The results were amazing, as they were last year on my Mazda.  Only thing I didn't do was the polish/wax step, since I ran out of daylight (and energy).  I have some of the Meguiar's cleaner wax left over but I don't know if it's enough to do the whole car.  The kit only came with a 4 oz. sample and I used at least half of it on the Mazda.  I'll probably do as much as I can with that and use some other products sitting in the garage to do the rest (like the roof and bumpers and such).

In case anyone's wondering I didn't see any evidence of "rail dust" on the clay.  I know that has been a concern of many people.  I'm in Central Maryland and bought the car in November, so even if it was transported via train they must have covered the metal surfaces with blue plastic.  That said, the Meguiar's clay is pretty mild and non-abrasive.  Based on my results I'd have no qualms about claying a new car even sooner, next time.  It definitely leaves the paint feeling smoother and more water resistant than when it left the factory.
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« Reply #32 on: March 13, 2011, 03:21:47 PM »

I've tried every product known to man to clean my windshields(not the Terrain---it's too new). There is some kind of ...watermark like stains. Can't see when dry, but shows up when the wipers are on in the rain.


This stuff would probably do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Spot-X-Hard-Water-Stain-Remover/dp/B0006IQJ42
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« Reply #33 on: June 29, 2011, 10:11:50 AM »

My guess would be yes, because it does a great job of getting the scuzz off the body, but I have yet to try it. An old friend of mine is a window cleaner, and his secret is a razor-blade. Personally, I've never had an issue with this as I try to keep my windows fairly clean.


If you have never clayed your windshield, you are missing the cleanest, crystal clear glass you have ever seen....honest....it works!!  Try this test: lightly run your finger tips over the INSIDE  of your windshield and then the OUTSIDE.  You should have a noticable rougher feel outside.  Claying will make it as smoothe as the inside hence crystal clear and easier to keep clean.
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« Reply #34 on: August 07, 2011, 08:53:31 AM »

For those that have never clayed your windshield.....you are missing the clearest glass you will ever see!!  As to claying the car, that actually takes less time than waxing one.  The whole process of washing, claying, waxing.....is a day's work but the claying is the easy part.  Claying will NOT scratch your clear coat unless you have dirty clay with a particle that can scratch like if you drop it and try to use it.  For those that think their car looks as good as it did from the dealer.....that is about the worst a car can look!  They use harsh chemicals, improper method, dirty rags and sponges.  It can look MUCH better!
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« Reply #35 on: August 07, 2011, 09:31:28 AM »

For those that have never clayed your windshield.....you are missing the clearest glass you will ever see!!  As to claying the car, that actually takes less time than waxing one.  The whole process of washing, claying, waxing.....is a day's work but the claying is the easy part.  Claying will NOT scratch your clear coat unless you have dirty clay with a particle that can scratch like if you drop it and try to use it.  For those that think their car looks as good as it did from the dealer.....that is about the worst a car can look!  They use harsh chemicals, improper method, dirty rags and sponges.  It can look MUCH better!

When I bring the car into the dealer for service, I ask them not to wash the car.
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« Reply #36 on: August 08, 2011, 07:23:54 AM »

I'll take a free car wash any time. I wash by hand (Mr Clean Auto Dry car wash system) most of the time, but when I feel lazy (which is more often as I get older) I take it to the car wash. I don't plan to keep the car over 7-8 years so there is absolutely no reason for me to go to such extreams as claying or special wax/sealers etc.. I've never had a rust problem or any kind of paint fading problem or any problem with the paint from only washing and waxing normally.
My cars always look nice and shiny. As a matter of fact I use to enter my Vettes in concourses and winning most shows with nothing but washing and waxing. Back then never even heard of claying.
My Terrain is an every day driver - not a show car. It's going to get nicks and scratches so I'm not going to worry about how perfectly smooth the paint is. Now if it was a Bentley and I only drove it on sunny days - I would clay it (actully I'd have my chauffeur clay it).
I would rather be out riding my Harley then claying a car.
For those that do clay their cars, you have my utmost respect for going above and beyond to make your car as shiny and smooth as humanly possible. I just no longer have the time or energy to do that.
Just my opinion on the other side of the coin - no disrespect for those that like to clay their cars.
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« Reply #37 on: August 08, 2011, 03:46:34 PM »

Claying is about pride of ownership. For those of us who have the time, inclination, and desire for perfection, claying is a necessary step that should not be overlooked to achieve optimum results. It is allot of work. If I'm not mistaken, best results are achieved by first washing as per the administration's previous thread, then clay/lube, wash again, polish, glaze, wax, seal, and a final dusting for show shine. Use your favorite products or combine different manufacturers products. It is personal preference. For me, it's about pride of ownership. Now the interior is a another story...
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« Reply #38 on: August 09, 2011, 06:10:42 AM »

wbassnp007, I don't think pride has anything to do with it. I have lots of pride in my Terrain, my Vettes and all my cars and bikes - probably as much as you, but I still don't clay them. Like I said I don't have time to do all that work, I'd rather be out driving or riding my bike.
I'm not disparaging those that do - when I was a teenager I washed and waxed my cars every week - still do for my Harley. I just consider my Terrain as a family daily driver, a great one for sure, but it's going to get lots of dings and scratches, so I'm not really that concerned about how smooth the paint finish is. That's just me.

If you put your car next to mine and stand 10 feet away, you will not be able to tell the difference. That's my experience from many car shows I've participated in over the years.
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« Reply #39 on: August 09, 2011, 06:25:57 AM »

Try Bon Ami.  You can use it on glass .. Works great
Bon Ami site sujests that you don't use it on auto glass...

  Home > Special Products >

  Bon Ami 1886 Formula Cleaning Powder - 12 oz - 6 pack
 
   
   
   
 Our Price: $10.95 

 Qty:         

 
 
 
   
 
 
 
     
   
   
 Not to be confused with the mainstream and widely distributed Bon Ami Powder Cleanser, Bon Ami still makes its 1886 formula, originally sold in a bar, but now in powder form.  The easy-to-shake can contains gentle feldspar abrasive for polishing and soap for cleaning all hard surfaces.  Use to defog windows and mirrors.  This is the only Bon Ami powder that is recommended for use on glass.  Because car makers now use some non-glass materials, Bon Ami no longer recommends the use of Cleaning Powder on auto glass.  NASA even used Cleaning Powder to clean the windows on Skylab.  Many allergists recommend original Bon Ami because the natural ingredients contain no detergent, bleach, perfume, or dye. 
 
   

   

 
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« Reply #40 on: August 09, 2011, 08:21:05 AM »

 My wife's Equinox is our family car and driven every day...but she does take somewhat extra care of it. Parks farther out in parking lots to avoid dings..is careful with keeping the interior nice(even with grandkids). Doesn't 'tailgate' in  traffic and collect rock marks...etc. Takes the time to wipe bugs and birdcrap off the finish. It's not inevitable that the family car must collect scrapes and scratches..at least hers doesn't. Since she still works...and I have been retired for almost 12 years(just turned 64)..I have no hesitation in claying her car once or twice a year...then polishing her clearcoat and adding a good sealant. After washing..we most always take a few minutes to add a quick spray detailer and keep the tires black. Same with my '07 Solstice...and my Harley. They all have a deep gloss mirror shine..that I admit is not always the norm for many cars on the road. My excuse is...I can't stand a dirty..muddy or stained vehicle. I can't wait to get a new car home from the showroom or dealer detailer and put my 'deep gloss' and 'mirror shine' on. After the initial prep with these newer polishing systems our cars easily maintain a quite noticable smooth high gloss with then only a quick spray detailer to enhance and maintain the shine. Not nearly the time consuming effort and labor of waxing cars years ago. On occassion I am asked 'Wow..just what kind of wax do you use..you must spend hours buffing out that shine'. Er...no..it's easy on easy off..afterall I'm an old guy.... Grin


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« Reply #41 on: August 09, 2011, 10:05:34 AM »

My wife's Equinox is our family car and driven every day...but she does take somewhat extra care of it. Parks farther out in parking lots to avoid dings..is careful with keeping the interior nice(even with grandkids). Doesn't 'tailgate' in  traffic and collect rock marks...etc. Takes the time to wipe bugs and birdcrap off the finish. It's not inevitable that the family car must collect scrapes and scratches..at least hers doesn't. Since she still works...and I have been retired for almost 12 years(just turned 64)..I have no hesitation in claying her car once or twice a year...then polishing her clearcoat and adding a good sealant. After washing..we most always take a few minutes to add a quick spray detailer and keep the tires black. Same with my '07 Solstice...and my Harley. They all have a deep gloss mirror shine..that I admit is not always the norm for many cars on the road. My excuse is...I can't stand a dirty..muddy or stained vehicle. I can't wait to get a new car home from the showroom or dealer detailer and put my 'deep gloss' and 'mirror shine' on. After the initial prep with these newer polishing systems our cars easily maintain a quite noticable smooth high gloss with then only a quick spray detailer to enhance and maintain the shine. Not nearly the time consuming effort and labor of waxing cars years ago. On occassion I am asked 'Wow..just what kind of wax do you use..you must spend hours buffing out that shine'. Er...no..it's easy on easy off..afterall I'm an old guy.... Grin





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« Reply #42 on: August 09, 2011, 01:16:04 PM »

I agree about dirty muddy cars. I can't stand mine being either. As soon as it starts to show dirt, it's either the Mr Clean manual wash in the driveway or a trip to the car wash - all depends on how I feel that day.

IceMan, if I was retired like you, I'd also have plenty of time to clay.  Grin
Unfortunately I still have to work at 67. Doubt if I'll ever be able to retire.  so sad
Oh well, there's always the lottery.  thumbs up
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« Reply #43 on: August 09, 2011, 04:06:35 PM »

I agree about dirty muddy cars. I can't stand mine being either. As soon as it starts to show dirt, it's either the Mr Clean manual wash in the driveway or a trip to the car wash - all depends on how I feel that day.

IceMan, if I was retired like you, I'd also have plenty of time to clay.  Grin
Unfortunately I still have to work at 67. Doubt if I'll ever be able to retire.  so sad
Oh well, there's always the lottery.  thumbs up

 Nothing wrong with work...GaryD...especially if it's something you can enjoy. I still do work..but it's something that I always wanted to do at home..so I don't really see it as real work. I pity the guy who must wheelbarrow 12 yards of cement at my age. Yep...a buddy of mine still does that kind of work..and he certainly doesn't care about claying anything in the spare time that he manages to find......
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« Reply #44 on: August 09, 2011, 04:10:17 PM »

 Cheers
I had to chuckle about your friend not wanting to clay - probably doesn't want to wash it either, just grab a beer and chill out on the Lazyboy. thumbs up
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« Reply #45 on: August 09, 2011, 04:17:45 PM »

wbassnp007, I don't think pride has anything to do with it. I have lots of pride in my Terrain, my Vettes and all my cars and bikes - probably as much as you, but I still don't clay them. Like I said I don't have time to do all that work, I'd rather be out driving or riding my bike.
I'm not disparaging those that do - when I was a teenager I washed and waxed my cars every week - still do for my Harley. I just consider my Terrain as a family daily driver, a great one for sure, but it's going to get lots of dings and scratches, so I'm not really that concerned about how smooth the paint finish is. That's just me.

If you put your car next to mine and stand 10 feet away, you will not be able to tell the difference. That's my experience from many car shows I've participated in over the years.

Granted we both have pride in the ride. The quality of the vehicle should be preserved for as long as possible. What I'm trying to accomplish is to delay depreciation of the vehicle and drive around in a quality product. Clearly, the finish and condition of the body, although cosmetic, decreases depreciation. I admit though if I got a scratch or a ding, I wouldn't feel so bad after reading your posts.
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« Reply #46 on: August 09, 2011, 04:19:08 PM »

Cheers
I had to chuckle about your friend not wanting to clay - probably doesn't want to wash it either, just grab a beer and chill out on the Lazyboy. thumbs up

 True that..! Looks like he's ninety...but stringbean solid as a rock. Still loves long rides on the weekends,though.
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« Reply #47 on: August 10, 2011, 09:27:12 AM »

wbassnp007, I agree with you about wanting to preserve the finish as long as possible. Most people only keep their cars on average 4 to 5 years. Of course that's changing now with people keeping their cars longer because of the economy.  I think the paint jobs on modern cars are so good that they last far longer - with proper care - then ownership of the cars. That's how I feel. Keep it washed and waxed and it will last well after the time I sell it.
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« Reply #48 on: February 16, 2013, 09:17:34 AM »

Here's a tip for using a clay bar.
Several years ago I discovered paint overspray on my vehicle, not the Terrain, a Ford Escape.
I suspect I picked it up on the interstate driving under a bridge painting job.
This is when I discovered claying.
It took all afternoon to remove the paint overspray but when I was done I could not believe the results.
The car looked showroom new!
If you ever have an unfortunate experience like this I highly recommend the clay bar.
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« Reply #49 on: February 16, 2013, 11:48:56 AM »

Originally the clay was made for dealers to remove the metal embedded in the paint from transporting cars by rail. They would get small flecks in the paint and it would rust letting the paint look stained. Also they found that it was the key to removing over spray in the body shop.

It finally filtered down to the commercial level. Many people do not realize how long it has been around and in use. Many dealers had it 25-30 year ago. We had it for public use where I worked about 20 years ago.

The real key is to tear the chunk you have in half and only use part of it. If you drop it you have more to go to. Never use a piece you drop.

I also have found you can use it with a hose and running water. The clay just needs a lube to flow over the car and keep it from sticking. If you are not doing a surface that is that bad it will do the job. If the conditions are very poor any good detailer will work.
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« Reply #50 on: February 16, 2013, 12:46:53 PM »



I also have found you can use it with a hose and running water. The clay just needs a lube to flow over the car and keep it from sticking. If you are not doing a surface that is that bad it will do the job. If the conditions are very poor any good detailer will work.

I use it with car wash soap-suds - works very well with that.
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« Reply #51 on: February 16, 2013, 02:09:39 PM »

GARYD,
 I had a S10 pickup when I was younger that i did a lot of customizing on- installed window louvers on back window, etc. Problem was that I washed the truck so frequently and couldn't dry the back glass that the window got spots all over it. The spots wouldn't come off with pressure washing or after taking louvers off window cleaner wouldn't touch. I finally took a single edge razor blade like the one used to scrape of stickers and held it at a angle and scraped the entire window. It sounded like I was moving the blade across occasional spots of sand embedded in the glass but the blade scraped off the dried calcium deposits and the spots were gone. The process really didn't take a long time so I ended up doing the windshield and side windows. It was easy to tell if this was needed because of the rough feel when the blade passed over the glass removing calcium- then the totally smooth feel where there were no deposits. Also there was a fine white powder buildup on the blade. The blade was passed over the glass with the edge leading the way and the blade almost flat against the glass. The blade doesn't scratch the glass- try it!
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